A Cicala is a Cicada, and these Lampia-clone Nebbiolo vines in Bussia are between 45 and 50 years old, yielding a wine of uncommon intensity and power. Grand Cru Barolo all the way! “Cicala is my top choice in 2014. The wine shows a pure and enduring mouthfeel with salty or saline minerality that makes it such a pleasure to drink. The wine boasts a direct and vertical delivery of aromas, with cassis and dried raspberry that burst to the top with brightness.” – The Wine Advocate
The late Aldo Conterno, a legend of Piedmont’s Langhe region, could have very easily made his mark somewhere altogether different. Aldo immigrated to the United States in 1954, and once planned to start a winery with his uncle in the Napa Valley. Uncle Sam came knocking, however, and Aldo served honorably in South Korea for two years as a Specialist in the U.S. Army. Upon his discharge he returned to San Francisco and, finding that his uncle had abandoned the winery venture, Aldo returned to Piedmont. The seeds of a great domaine were thus sown, in the little township of Bussia. Aldo’s time in America awakened an entrepreneurial fire in him, and just over 10 years after his return, he left his father Giacomo Conterno’s cantina, purchased the Favot farm, and founded Podere Aldo Conterno in 1969. Sadly, Aldo passed away in 2012, and today the farm and winery in Bussia township, Monforte d’Alba is run by his three sons: Franco, Stefano and Giacomo. Neither resolutely traditional nor excessively modern, these are expressive, vivid, concentrated wines that will reward long cellaring. Quite simply, these wines demonstrate just how good Barolo—and thus Italian wine—can get. They are indispensable to the serious connoisseur’s cellar.
The 2014 Barolo Bussia Cicala comes from a 3.2-hectare parcel, and only 5,400 bottles are made despite the fact that there is the potential for higher volumes. Both the Cicala and the Romirasco sites are relatively steep and therefore enjoy longer sunlight hours each day of summer for ripe and concentrated fruit. Of these new single-vineyard releases from Poderi Aldo Conterno, Cicala is my top choice in 2014. The wine shows a pure and enduring mouthfeel with salty or saline minerality that makes it such a pleasure to drink. The wine boasts a direct and vertical delivery of aromas, with cassis and dried raspberry that burst to the top with brightness. Cicala is a more direct and focused expression next to Colonnello, which tends to be more broad and horizontal instead.
Stunning rose-petal nose with hints of licorice and herbal tea. The palate has generosity, and the tannins have a polish that's rare in 2014 Barolos. If you like tannins, then you will agree with us that this is already delicious. It also has a long life ahead of it. Better after 2020.