Bussia, a little township just east of Barolo but more closely associated with Monforte d’Alba, is a sweet spot for supple, pungent Barolo. Nobody renders the perfume of Bussia better than the Conternos: “Gorgeous aromas of dark berries, cedar and very ripe fruit that follow through to a full body, deep and dense tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Plush.” – James Suckling
The late Aldo Conterno, a legend of Piedmont’s Langhe region, could have very easily made his mark somewhere altogether different. Aldo immigrated to the United States in 1954, and once planned to start a winery with his uncle in the Napa Valley. Uncle Sam came knocking, however, and Aldo served honorably in South Korea for two years as a Specialist in the U.S. Army. Upon his discharge he returned to San Francisco and, finding that his uncle had abandoned the winery venture, Aldo returned to Piedmont. The seeds of a great domaine were thus sown, in the little township of Bussia. Aldo’s time in America awakened an entrepreneurial fire in him, and just over 10 years after his return, he left his father Giacomo Conterno’s cantina, purchased the Favot farm, and founded Podere Aldo Conterno in 1969. Sadly, Aldo passed away in 2012, and today the farm and winery in Bussia township, Monforte d’Alba is run by his three sons: Franco, Stefano and Giacomo. Neither resolutely traditional nor excessively modern, these are expressive, vivid, concentrated wines that will reward long cellaring. Quite simply, these wines demonstrate just how good Barolo—and thus Italian wine—can get. They are indispensable to the serious connoisseur’s cellar.
Gorgeous aromas of dark berries, cedar and very ripe fruit that follow through to a full body, deep and dense tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Plush.
Ripe and broad, retaining a lively feel that defines the macerated plum, licorice, leather, tar and spice flavors. Shows an underlying streak of iron and a hint of black pepper as this winds down on the long finish. The tannins are assertive, balanced by ample fruit.
The 2015 Barolo Bussia is painted in the broadest of brush strokes when compared to the other wines tasted this year, which each hail from their own specific micro cru within the larger Bussia vineyard. This makes sense, because this wine sees fruit sourced from a much wider net. You do get a great sense of the vintage intensity and succulence with pretty layers of sweet fruit, rose, tilled earth and delicate button mushroom. This wine shows its pedigree with confidence. Some 15,000 bottles were made.