The red may be young, but it’s as solid and tight as they come. Wonderfully aromatic, with pronounced floral, black-licorice, and tar lending focus and character. Full-bodied, creamy-textured, and with just enough spice to keep things interesting. Tobreck’s 2017 The Struie is an excellent value from this talented, Barossa Valley producer.
The story of Torbreck could be titled; "Lumberjack revives forgotten vineyard, discovers grapes are out of this world good." It's the kind of idea that is genius in its simplicity, and yet when someone comes up with it, you wish you'd had the idea first. David Powell was working at Rockford (another amazing Aussie winery) in the 1990s when he saw a few parcels of neglected vines that needed some TLC. His rehabilitation efforts yielded some grapes that he turned into a little bit of wine. The juice was good, real good in fact and soon he was contracting to purchase the fruit. Other nearby land owners saw what Powell was doing (turning non-impressive vines into perennial performers), and they too invited in the "vine whisperer" to check out some of their vineyards in need of attention. In no time, David was trading his efforts in return for the right to "share farm" some of Barossa's most prized ancient-vine vineyards. Torbreck grew quickly, and Craig Isbel was brought in to run the cellar in 2006. He's since taken on the roll of winemaker, while David departed in search of his next big adventure. These days the T's have been crossed and the I's have been dotted - all the pieces in the right places, and we can't argue with the results.
The black-licorice and tar aromas really give focus and character to this young red, yet it’s so solid and tight with oyster-shell undertones to the light toffee and smoky flavors. Lavish and agile.