This rare beauty is absolutely bursting with red berries, poached plum and blue fruit. It makes a light and juicy first impression before settling into its full weight and concentration, turning serious and grippy. The savory finish is gorgeous. This has all the power and elegance of the finest Burgundies and, perhaps best of all, it’s absolutely enjoyable now but will hold for another decade.
Absolutely bursting with blue and red fruits, the concentration is deceptive here, as it starts out juicy and full of air, but after a few minutes in the glass you start to feel the weight and the texture, and this turns into an extremely serious wine with real tannic hold. Gorgeous savoury finish, as you get so often in the best Burgundies, where weightlessness is such a brilliant veil to the power behind. 55% whole cluster.VN93
The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a transitional wine in terms of the changeover from Jacques Desvauges to former Château Grillet winemaker Alessandro Noli following its acquisition by Groupe Artémis. It has a mélange of red and black fruit on the nose, the 55% whole bunch imparting scents of black pepper, damp undergrowth and a shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with good grip on the entry. Quite compact at the moment, this obviously requires several years in bottle. But there is admirable freshness and tension; peppery towards the finish that feels just a touch austere and stern at the moment due to the robust, assertive tannins. That should soften with time, though comparing the two vintages side-by-side, I feel that the 2019 is endowed with more sophistication.WA92
The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru opens in the glass with rich aromas of raspberries, plum preserve, ripe berries, warm spices and rose petals, framed by a generous touch of creamy new oak. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's rich, muscular and extracted, with a brooding, introverted profile that will require—and, one hopes, reward—patience. As I wrote last year, this is a powerful, broad-shouldered Clos de Tart that has more in common with the wines of the Pitiot era than it does with what the domaine produced in 2015, 2016, 2017 or 2019.