This wine was born in the shadow of the Etna volcano, planted in iron-rich volcanic soils at the upward limit where the fruit can ripen. Mr. Graci is unconcerned about the threat of the active volcano, a small price to pay for the energy and character in his wines. “Lava? We are fatalists,” he says with a shrug. Human intervention is frowned upon here, where the highest respect is paid to the native varieties and the ethereal wines they produce.