This year’s wine shows the power and strength you come to expect while being weightless at the same time. There’s crème de cassis, blueberries, espresso, chicory, toast, and spices on the nose. The palate is playful offering waves of vanilla, cinnamon, and candied yams, mixed with darker notes of orange peel, dark chocolate, and earthiness of redwood forest. The finish of this wine is effortless and yet powerful with silky, grippy tannins. Aged with slightly more oak than the others given its density, the To-Kalon is able to absorb it easily, and the final structure is capable of aging effortlessly for decades.
Darker cassis, violets, redcurrants, new leather, and flowery incense notes all emerge from the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Lithology Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard, a quintessential expression of this Grand Cru terroir in Oakville. With full-bodied richness, a deep, opulent mouthfeel, and incredible purity, it has the rare sense of power without weight that’s the hallmark of this incredible terroir. The 2019 is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, aged 20 months in 71% new French oak. Drink it over the coming two decades.
My favorite of the Bulgheroni wines on this occasion was the 2019 Lithology Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard, which includes a healthy 10% Cabernet Franc. The Franc adds a gently leafy, lifted note on the nose, which really complements the wine's ripe black cherry and earthy components. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, this carries its alcohol better than the straight Cab Franc, finishing with tremendous length and a plush, velvety texture. This is really impressive. (JC)