2020 Penfolds 'Bin 389' Cabernet Shiraz South Australia
Frequently dubbed 'Baby Grange,' Bin 389, created by Max Schubert in 1960, matures in Grange's previous vintage barrels. Unveiling complexing flavors, Bin 389 delights with savory notes of freshly sliced fennel, pan-wilted radicchio leaf, and pickled turnips. Pair with Moroccan lamb backstraps on eggplant relish, where red licorice and cherry offer a sweet counterpoint. Evolved tannins seamlessly shape the palate structure, promising longevity for those patient enough to wait many decades.
Penfolds has a very long and meandering history, and represents generations of winemaking knowledge in action. In 1844, Dr. Christopher and Mary Penfold planted vineyards at Magill Estate near Adelaide. The first Penfolds wines, from the 1800s, were made from newly established vineyards around Adelaide and made for the enjoyment of new South Australian colonists. During the first part of the 20th century, Penfolds gradually added significant acreage and became a household name across Australia. It exported table and fortified wines throughout the Commonwealth. After a visit to France in 1950, Penfolds chief winemaker Max Schubert dreamed bigger, wanting to dramatically expand the winery’s export presence, as the French had. The iconic Penfolds Grange came forth in 1951, leading to a remarkable parade of wines that would bring Penfolds wines worldwide acclaim for their richness, consistency, and longevity.
Wine Advocate
Looking in on the 389 can be "'can be," she says, parenthetically) a good insight into what we can expect from the upcoming Grange. Now, they are very different wines, no question, however, stylistically they have much in common and the illumination into the season that birthed the wines in each instance. Here, the 2020 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz has consummate polish and sleek tannins, imbued as they are with graphite, black tea, licorice and resin. The fruit is pure and black and chewy... gorgeous wine. And it lives for decades. This has always been a collector's dream and continues so through this vintage. Highly recommended.
James Suckling
Very rich, ripe and intense, this has plenty of depth and is one of the strongest statements of Penfolds’ house style. Rich vanillin and sweetly spicy American oak on the nose, with chocolate, blueberry, violet, blackberry and iodine notes. The palate delivers quite approachable and supple texture, smoothly fleshy and inviting. Flavors of blackberry, blackcurrant and mulberry abound. Deep and ripe finish with nutty tannins to close. A blend of McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley and Padthaway. Drink or hold.
Wine Spectator
Dense and succulent, with velvety tannins and a core of spiced plum and blackberry. The details and aromatics take this wine to the next level—reminiscent of dark chocolate and Black Forest cake, Kalamata olive, nutmeg and palo santo. Gains momentum on the long, expressive finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Drink now through 2037.